August 1, 2009
I woke up to the realization that my shoddy hostel’s water wasn’t going to get warmer and I wasn’t going to get any cleaner. I finally succumbed to the cold shower. I learned how to get clean when both the air and your water supply feel like ice. It’s all about speediness.
I checked out of the hostel and went to get breakfast. I was joined by an English guy I’d met on the boat from Isla del Sol to Copacabana the previous day. We were both leaving for La Paz that afternoon. When I bought my bus ticket, I specifically requested the tourist bus and paid 25 Bolivianos. He said he paid 30 Bolivianos for his tourist bus ticket. The journey between Copacabana and La Paz was one I’d heard a lot about because there had been a history of tourist kidnappings along that route. I wondered if he was charged an extra 5 Bolivianos or if I’d end up on some shady bus. I hoped for the former.
We made our way down to the bus area. The scene was chaotic with backpacks and backpackers everywhere. When they started boarding the bus, it became even more disorderly. A clipboard that we had to sign in on was being passed around haphazardly. Everyone was scrambling for it because the bus appeared to be overbooked and everyone wanted a seat. In the end, there was one seat left and several people who hadn’t boarded. I saw an Israeli guy who had been my bunk mate on my last night in Cusco. He was traveling by himself, so he claimed the last seat and we finally headed off to La Paz.
Our bus floating across the lake
Some places have floating markets. Others have floating villages. Bolivia has floating buses. On the drive from Copacabana to La Paz, there is a point where you have to cross over part of Lake Titicaca. But there is no bridge. What’s the solution? Put the people on a boat, and put the boat onto a raft. It’s resourceful and provides entertainment for a multitude of tourists.
Che Guevara scrap metal statue in El Alto
After a long drive, we approached the vibrant streets of El Alto. We rounded a corner and were treated to a stunning view of La Paz. A valley of buildings with a snow-covered Mount Illimani in the background. I instantly knew I would like La Paz. When we reached the city, we were dropped off on a busy street corner. Getting off the bus was just as chaotic as getting on.
First glimpse of La Paz
I shared a taxi with the English guy and two Irish girls who were part of his group. Their hostel was right around the corner from the hostel I’d booked. Later, I met up with them at their hostel for a pre-dinner drink. We were also joined by a English couple they’d been traveling with. At dinner, we had a conversation about British spellings and pronunciation versus American spellings and pronunciations. This subject has potential to get out of hand but it’s always fun. When I encountered the group on the boat the day before, I thought they were part of a tour, but they’d all just met. I love how quickly travel allows connections to be made.
