May 2012

On a quiet street in the fancy Vinohrady neighborhood of Prague, I spotted the entrance to the restaurant and cafe, Sudicka. I walked down the steps into a cavernous, brick walled space. It was dark and medieval feeling, yet somehow very cozy. Books and antiques filled the space and dripping candles gave the room a soft glow.

Sudicka had been a recommendation of the receptionist at my hostel. She’d told me that they served good and affordable local food in an atmospheric setting. I decided to go there on my final evening in Prague to give Czech food one last try. I’ve been fortunate enough to be spoiled by some of the most creative cuisines of the world, and the more salty than flavorful food of Central to Eastern Europe hadn’t won me over. I hadn’t eaten much of it while I was in Prague, but I thought it deserved another taste before I left the city.

I asked my waiter to tell me about local dishes that the restaurant does well and he suggested roasted pork with sides of Czech-style bread dumplings and red cabbage. When my meal came out, I could tell that it was cooked with heart and tradition. The pork was tender, the dumplings were a fun fluffy consistency, and the cabbage was the right accent. It was enjoyable enough, but I still wasn’t blown away by any of the flavors.

But I guess that’s just how traditional Czech food is — simple, down homey, and good for washing down with a pint of beer. And in the charmingly rustic ambiance of Sudicka, the overall dinner experience was a wonderful ending for my last beautiful day in Prague.

Cafe Sudička
Nitranská 1355/7
Prague 3-Vinohrady
http://www.sudicka.cz/

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On my last afternoon in Prague, I walked up Petrin Hill to look out over the red roofs and gold-topped spires of the city aglow in the light of waning sun. As I made my way to the top, I found the views I was searching for and so much more:

It’s amazing how easily you can find calm spaces in crowded summertime Prague. Aside from the Charles Bridge area, it was much quieter on the other side of River Vltava. Just a little way up Petrin Hill I found even more serenity.

Pears and view.

The path less traveled.

Down below, the crowded Charles Bridge.

Broken ornaments decorated the outside of the fantastical Reon Argondian Gallery.

Through some iron gates I came across this garden where a woman was painting the scene.

This garden was pure joy.

 As if the first garden wasn’t amazing enough, around the corner I found another garden full of vibrant roses.

More fantastic views of Prague.

A nice spot for music making.

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When I travel, I want more than to see a place, I want to experience a place. I want to plunge into the local psyche and see what makes it like nowhere else in the world. I’m often amazed how with globalization looming over the world, places can be so different when you get to the heart of them.

It’s easy to scrape the surface of or completely miss the reality of a well-known city. As a travel lover who lives in a popular city to travel to, I notice it all the time. Some come here and get caught up in a quest for an idealized version of a past San Francisco. While San Francisco’s history is obviously important in making it what it is today, you’re not going to find some blissful hippie haven à la 1967 in the Haight. Others will not go beyond the recommended tourist attractions. I understand the bay side appeal of Pier 39, but what’s contained in it has little or nothing to do with what San Francisco is to the people who live here now

To get to the true heart of the city, you have to go beyond what you think you know about it and beyond the tourist recommendations. Why bother? Because your travels will be much richer. Because you’ll open yourself up to serendipitous moments. Because you’ll come home knowing one place much better and therefore know the world a bit better. Just about everything out there has already been discovered by someone else, but the souls of places are always out there waiting to be discovered by you. Here’s how to get started:

» Spend a good amount of time in one city. Spend time away from the tourist center. Stay in or heartily explore more than one neighborhood. Discover the complex layers that make a unique whole.

» Use public transportation. Move around the city with everyday people living their everyday lives.

» Wander through local shopping centers, from open air produce markets to the mall. Sample a fruit you’ve never tried before. Try on a type of clothing you’ve never worn before.

» Check out galleries and look out for street art. Look around you for the local concerns, the current popular aesthetic, and glimpses of where a place might be heading.

» Attend festivals and parades. Celebrate, participate in traditions, get immersed in colorful culture.

» Post up in cafes, parks, plazas, or other gathering places. People watch. Talk to people. Let people talk to you.

» Join people at a popular street food stand or cheap eatery. Stand on the sidewalk or sit on a stool while trying a popular local dish.

» Visit the local bars and clubs. Get loose and interact. Enjoy the local drink.

» Connect with residents to meet up with before you go. Or don’t and make connections along the way. Just try to connect.

» Walk until your feet hurt. Make turns on a whim. Find out where you are by getting lost.

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