Cuba

I recently came across this wonderfully honest and beautiful video of scenes from Old Havana. It unexpectedly made me feel like I was in Havana again. It captures what a visit to the city is all about. The main thing to see there is everyday living as is — the resourcefulness and creative solutions, lots of people spending lots of time observing the same things they see everyday, the prominent mellowness and seriousness that sometimes is what it is but can also belie spirited living, the unique characters that isolation develops… some of the things that make it impossible to compare Cuba with anywhere else, some of the elements of Cuba that make it so strange and so enticing.

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It was our last day as a group; we’d all be heading in different directions the next day or the day after. We’d recently been strangers, but now we’d shared an insane and insanely amazing week and a half together. When we got back to the city, the six of us who were left commemorated by wandering through Old Havana without a plan. This was followed by one last crappy dinner and towers (yes, towers) of surprisingly good local brews.

My flight was leaving very early the next morning and I was grateful for the last hours I had in Havana, however few they were. The second time around, everything seemed more familiar, more comfortable. And it was a Friday night so the streets of Old Havana were alive and full.

As I’ve mentioned in previous posts, the average Cuban does not make a big deal about tourists. Sometimes in travel, it’s nice to simply be treated like a regular human being. On my own, I could’ve blended in with the Cubans, but I was surrounded by people who could not. Either way, the treatment was no different. As we walked by people, they’d make eye contact. They might smile or they might not. We walked up to band practices, barbershops, and art studios where people acknowledged our presence by looking up and waving us in. Then they went right back to concentrating on whatever they were doing without caring that a group of tourists was hanging out to watch.

One time, we noticed an open doorway and a hallway full of paintings and thought it was a gallery, but it was really someone’s house. People were gathered in the living room and one of them came to investigate us for a less than minute before returning to the living room and leaving us to look around.

Could you imagine that happening in any other big city in the world? What would you do if people walked into your house like that? Your door wouldn’t even be open like that in the first place, and it likely has more than one lock. Everywhere we went in Cuba, you could walk right into peoples’ homes.

The ability to observe life in Cuba without the bullshit and filters of tourism was a large part of what made it such a fascinating country to visit. At first, Cuba confused me and I resisted, then I succumbed to the confusion. I left with no answers and more questions than I had when I’d arrived. Cuba challenged me to think about the inherent bias I view the world through, the one that was developed by growing up in a place where we’re taught that the way we do things is the way. Even as the forward thinking person I consider myself to be, the bias is hard to shake, but I am becoming more aware of level at which it infiltrates how I view other countries. And each time I let go of part of that bias, the harder it becomes to come home and try to readjust to the stubbornness.

I gave up on coming up with definitive answers about Cuba almost as soon as I’d arrived, but what I did walk away with were observations. Cuba is visually stunning; it’s one of the most beautiful countries I’ve visited so far. I could have loved Cuba based on that alone, but what pushed it into to my favorites list were the wonderful people I encountered there with their calmness, complexity, and surprising openness. Like a microcosm of the larger America-Cuba situation, their doors were open, you just had to have the courage to step through.

I didn’t know until later why this woman and her lovely group of children were gathered around this statue. Apparently, rubbing the beard or index finger of this “Gentleman from Paris” gives you good luck.

Amazingly talented musicians are around every corner in Cuba.

This man saw me taking a picture of the band and invited me to take a picture of him with the band.

It’s hard to see his facial expression in this picture, but the adorable boy in the chair didn’t look too happy about getting his hair cut.

A lot people were gathered around this street performance of Afro-Cuban music and dance and there was also a craft table for kids there. I love when people take culture to the streets and make it accessible.

A man working on some leather art in his studio/gallery.

I loved the way the man, the statue, and the mask lined up.

Boys playing soccer on the cobblestone streets of Old Havana. I never saw anyone playing baseball in Cuba. Aside from a volley ball match I saw on TV, soccer was the only sport I saw people playing there!

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Our Day of Cuban Rest

by Ekua on October 5, 2010 · 7 comments in Cuba

I love the ocean something fierce, but I’m not a beach vacation type of person. Even when I travel to a seaside place with the intention of relaxing, I often end up discovering how much there is to do there and try to tackle as many activities as I can. But that urgency and eagerness to do everything is fading with time. And on that day specifically, I just wanted to spend hours lazing on the beach and releasing the previous day’s craziness. We all wanted that.

And we were in Maria la Gorda, an ideal place to do so with its abundance of therapeutic sun and sea and lack of things to do. The “resort” we stayed at, along with the International Scuba Diving Center that is located there, are all there is to Maria la Gorda. It’s an isolated place on the western edge of Cuba, closer to Mexico than it is to Havana.

We didn’t have ocean view rooms in Maria la Gorda, what we had was better—rustic cabanas connected by a series of wooden walkways. During the day, in the foliage between and underneath the walkways, there were hundreds of butterflies swirling around.

I went to check out some snorkel gear after breakfast. After being sent back and forth between the scuba center and the hotel reception and waiting much longer than was really necessary, it was determined that the only matching sets of flippers were way too big. But I at least procured one of the last snorkeling masks they had available. While I was at reception, I inquired about the international phone I’d seen at the hotel.

“You can buy a phone card, but the phone doesn’t work,” responded the receptionist nonchalantly, not even making eye contact with me.

Es Cuba. You can let the blasé Cuban customer service offend you or make you angry or you can let it go and not take it personally. It’s only when you get past it that you can embrace Cuba for what it is and enjoy it fully.

Out on the beach, we found a cluster of palm trees for shade. We laid. We snorkeled. We read. We slept. We let go.

We took a break for lunch. The tuna fish sandwich I ordered tasted incredible to me and the Aussie Vegan couple raved about their toast. No, they weren’t the most spectacular things we’d ever eaten, they were just different from what we’d been eating. If you’ve had just one incredible meal in your life, Cuban food will not taste good to you. There’s no sugarcoating that. You do get used to it and after awhile, a good meal consists of  “different!” or “more flavors!” but it’s highly unlikely that you’ll reach the level of memorable tastiness of a coconut curry in Thailand or a mole in Oaxaca and so on.

Back on the beach, we continued our morning routine, until the sand flies became too much to handle. The casa mother in Vinales had warned me about them. She’d asked me where we were going next. When I told her we were heading to Maria la Gorda, she puckered up her face and repeatedly pinched her arm. That was a pretty accurate description of late afternoons and evenings there. The sand flies are vicious little things. They all seemed to be saying, “Take that DEET and shove it!”

So we headed indoors to enjoy our non-electric showers (In Vinales, all of our casa particulares had electric showers that sparked and sizzled when we adjusted the temperature and threatened to electrocute us.) and watch a bit of World Cup before coming back together for dinner.

If it wasn’t for associating that day with the intense day that came before it, it would not have been memorable. No, it was not the day gripping travel stories are made of, but that non-crazy, non-spectacular day was exactly what we’d wanted and needed.

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The Breakdown and The Beach

by Ekua on September 30, 2010 · 11 comments in Cuba

Later on, we’d start piecing together the signs, but foreseeing what would happen that day would not have been logical. When you’re thrown together with a new travel group, polite layers are shed quickly as you spend a ridiculous amount of time with people and places you’ve just met. When a fellow traveler’s quirkiness begins to show, it might annoy you or make you laugh but you don’t really think anything of it.

Because you’re all a little crazy to be doing what you’re doing. It’s all self-imposed: carrying what you need in a heavy backpack for an extended period of time, culture clashing, shabby accommodations, mysterious food you eat because it’s all that’s available, long butt numbing bus rides, and so on. You take the bad with the good, because after all, you’ve made the decision to seek out both vivacity and the people who are mad enough to join you along the way.

But sometimes what appear to be strange characteristics turn out to be a lot more. We discovered this the day we left Vinales to head to the coast. She showed strange behavior in the middle of the night and extremely strange behavior in the morning. As we set out on our bus ride and the behavior intensified, we began to realize the seriousness of it. The four hour journey was characterized by it—her distrust, fear, and confusion as well as our own that had developed, albeit, on a much less severe level.

As we neared the end of our drive and reached the edge of the country, perfection appeared through our windows. Untouched white sand and translucent turquoise water perfection. Empty beach perfection. Cost Plus poster perfection.

These views emerged suddenly and magnificently and the beauty of it all seemed to the have the potential to bring relief. I wanted to believe in the healing power of the sea. But that day, the sea chose to cultivate tempestuousness. Her sight of it provoked the beginning of a prolonged climax.

After hours of phone calls and rising and falling, an ambulance finally arrived. We knew that it would not be easy. The sunset accentuated a stormy concoction of thick clouds and lighting that was brewing over the sea. It was moving towards us. Wails pierced through dusk. I was standing at the edge of the water watching the sea storm when I suddenly decided head towards the storm on land. I had been avoiding it.

She saw me approaching. “EKUA! Come here!” Her previously quiet demeanor had been swallowed by whatever was consuming her mind. “Tell me the TRUTH!” The way she looked at me challenged the strength of my core.

In that moment, a part of me I’d been trying to tuck away for the summer came out of its resting spot. After a difficult school year, I’d been trying to take a break from the side of myself that absorbs the brokenness of others. But that didn’t matter when I knew I had the capacity to help and probably could’ve done more. I felt the need to stay. For some reason, she trusted me. I tried to find a balance between honestly answering her questions and saying what needed to be said.

People were hesitant to have her leave before she reached a calmer state. But it became clear that there was not going to be a moment where she willingly went off in an ambulance to a hospital she didn’t know in a confusing country when she suddenly didn’t trust almost everyone. It just needed to happen, and collectively, we were able to get her to stay in the ambulance. Our guide went with her.

The wailing drove off into darkness and the unknown and the day came crashing down into silence and waves. The storm over the sea never reached the shore.

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On our second morning in Vinales, five out of seven group members leave early to go on a hike. We’ve settled into the group and reached the point where we feel comfortable splitting up from time to time. The female half of the Aussie vegan couple and I stay in town. The previous night, Alberto had suggested that we all go shopping in Vinales in morning. We take him up on that offer.

Our first stop is a small boutique with a tiny selection of dresses and more jeans than seem necessary considering the climate. “This is a very expensive boutique,” Alberto says to us in a hushed voice. I get a sense that to him, this is the equivalent of a clothing store you’d find in Beverly Hills, the look-but-don’t-touch kind. I flip through the few dresses they have available and look at the price tags. They cost approximately 8-10 U.S. dollars.

Next, he takes us to store with a variety of items. The Aussie and I refer to it as a Cuban Target. Here, we see a bulky old school television selling for 600. We ask Alberto if the price is in Cuban Convertible Pesos which are approximately equal to US dollars. He nods his head yes . If a $9 dress is expensive, a TV is impossible for the average resident of Vinales.

Those are the kind of things you see in Cuba that make it consistently confusing. First you think, “Isn’t it fantastic that people here do/don’t do [fill in the blank]?” Then you think, “Where are the options? Is having options worth the result?” And so on. The often unresolved question, “Do the ends justify the means?” seems to always be present in Cuba.

Our last shopping stop is a grocery store. The front part of the store is inexplicably full of generic plastic toys, followed by a section of bathroom goods. For all I’ve heard about toilet paper shortages and an inability to buy basic toiletries in Cuba if you run out, there is quite a bit available. The selection isn’t vast, but you can find what you need there. In this store, there are no fresh fruits and vegetables, but around the corner is an area full of processed foods—lots of pasta, rice, dried garbanzo beans, chips and crackers, canned goods, strange meats and cheeses. It looks like what you would stock your pantry with if you were preparing for a natural disaster. I pick up a bag of crackers and looked at the ingredient list which includes “government authorized flavor”. Tasty.

Back at the casa, tiredness and unsettled stomach prompt me to rest for a bit. I wake up to find the casa owner’s son in the living room, sitting in a rocking chair and watching World Cup soccer on the family’s tiny television. I wonder how the family was able to afford their TV. I sit in an empty rocking chair and watch the game with him. He has kind eyes and we communicate about the teams and our hopes for the game with gestures, nods, and smiles. I know from Alberto that he is a huge soccer fan and plays for a local team. I look outside the window and notice that a storm is approaching.

The clouds that hover over the island are as complex as the people who inhabit it. In several shades and imaginative formations, they cast their shadows below. They accumulate and heave heavy drops and create a mirror for themselves. But it doesn’t last long. Soon after the last drop falls and the clouds disperse, the ground greedily consumes the water, insuring that mangoes will continue to drip from the trees; red, yellow, and fuchsia flowers will burst from branches; and the island will maintain a shade of green that is just a tad greener than you thought was earthly possible.

During the storm, I leave the casa owner’s son to his game and join the casa owner and a some other little old women on the porch to watch the rain and rock the time away. Unlike her son, the casa owner and her friends’ smiles are strained and less than genuine. They are white women, and in Cuba, I know that people of older generations often have more racial hang ups than those of younger ones. But I continue to rock and as the storm eases up, so do they. They begin to talk at me animatedly and I shrug and smile.

After the rain ends, the streets of Vinales immediately return to normal. People shout to nearby porches to communicate with their neighbors. A man sells mangoes up and down the streets until his wheelbarrow is empty. Guajiros ride by in horse-drawn carts. There’s a classic car, a beat up car, and modern car. Women and girls walk by with the a type of confidence I’ve only seen in certain parts of the world. It’s a type of confidence that doesn’t write off traditional femininity as weak or meek. No, the strength they encompass does not require them to shun their femininity, instead, it is born from it. Beauty and power exist harmoniously, simply because of a well-rounded knowledge the wonder of being female.

Later, the group comes back together for dinner at a nice restaurant on the outskirts of the town center. The hike and horseback riding that some of the group members partook in sound nice, but I wouldn’t trade the the shopping and porch rocking experiences I’ve had. While my day hasn’t been extravagant, the immersion has been exhilarating. And it isn’t over yet.

After dinner, the Aussie couple female half and I head over to the club with Alberto and Mr. Fabulous. The Aussie turns to me and excitedly whispers, “We’re in!” It is our third and final night in Vinales and we’ve come to know it and have felt incredibly welcomed. It is variety show night at the club and there are song and dance performances of various types of Cuban styles of music—salsa, rumba, Santeria and more. It’s all performed so casually and comfortably and the costumes are so outdated that it’s obvious that the show has been the same for a long, long time. And based on the nonchalance of the local members of the audience, that seems to be just the way it is.

After the show ends, the music goes back and forth from salsa to reggaeton. Still not convinced of our salsa moves, we relegate our dancing to the reggaeton songs. Alberto is not much of a dancer and sits out on most songs. But Mr. Fabulous goes for it, and seems to draw half of the audience to dance with our little group.  He starts dancing in time with the reggaeton and then builds up to dancing in double time before wiggling it out, each limb moving together but independently. With his moves and charisma combined, here in the States, he could easily start a dance workout video craze.

Alberto tells Mr. Fabulous about the nickname we’ve given him. He shakes his head and responds, “No, no, no!” He points to himself, smiles and says, “Senorita Fabuloso!”

By the end of the night, the three Australian guys have joined us and it becomes one of those crazy, joy-filled nights that is hard to surpass or even match. We linger in the square after the club closes and converse with people of the town and draw out the Vinales experience as much as possible.

At the end of my time in Vinales, I find the word that unites all the people I’ve encountered in Cuba: innocence. There is a lack of awareness about the world outside of Cuba that permeates so much of the way they do things there. It is refreshing, it is heartbreaking and it is endearing.

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