Nevada

The afternoon that I escaped from the pool club party, I had a chance to see that Vegas is not completely about illusion and generic over-consumption. In its extravagance, Vegas provides room and opportunity for colorful bursts of expression and creativity.

» At the Bellagio

While walking down The Strip, I came across Bellagio’s “lake” and hung around to see if I could catch the water show. It was pretty damn hot so after waiting for awhile, I decided it was best to go inside for a heat and bathroom break. On the ceiling, I noticed these lovely miniature hot air balloons. They were obviously inspired by hot air balloon festivals, one of which is held annually in Las Vegas.

My timing was perfect. As soon as I walked out of the building, a water show began. I tried to ignore the fact that it was choreographed to the most cheesy song possible, and hoped that the water used for it was recycled because the show was stunning. Way more than I imagined it would be. I know the word “breathtaking” is supposed to be a travel writing no-no, but in this case, I think it is appropriate.

» The Art of Richard MacDonald

Back at the CityCenter where our hotel was located, I came across a couple of art galleries. The first one I stopped at was full of sculptures by Richard MacDonald that were all based on Cirque du Soleil performers. I have to admit that I have never been interested in seeing Cirque du Soleil, but after taking a look at MacDonald’s emphatic and ornate sculptures, I feel inspired to go. As an added bonus, MacDonald was there that day, chatting it up with gallery visitors.

» Chihuly Glass Sculptures

When I visited Italy nine years ago, it was the first time I saw how much could be done with glass. I have been a glass art fan ever since. I was sad when I missed a Chihuly exhibition at San Francisco’s De Young museum a while back, so I was delighted when the second gallery I came across was full of his vivid glass sculptures.

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The first night in Vegas was tolerable enough. We’d had dinner at a fairly reasonably priced Mexican restaurant in the Venetian. Sure, I was thrown off by fake sunny skies indoors at night, but the food wasn’t all that bad and it was washed down nicely with the pitchers of margaritas we’d ordered.

We went to Tao nightclub which I didn’t find to be all that different from some clubs in Downtown San Francisco—if you multiplied the size by ten, let it get really crowded, and allowed smoking inside. We chatted with fellow clubbers who were pleasant and down-to-earth.

But the next afternoon brought on an experience I didn’t know repulsed me—the Vegas pool club party. Upon arrival at Liquid, in a security process that rivaled an airport, we were made to get rid of any outside food or drink. This was no picnic at the beach. Once inside, I had trouble believing that what I saw was really going on.

::Bringing a bit of Jersey Shore to Las Vegas::

Six inch heels at the pool. Jersey Shore-esque hyper-gelled hairdos. Bleached blond weaves and orange tans. Female chests puffed up with silicone and male chests that appeared to be puffed up with the aid of steroids. All dancing in or beside the pool clutching $15 cocktails and $9 Bud Lights. Hit songs pumping through the ample speaker system and vibrating the ground.

Though it was 90-something degrees, there were very few shaded areas. This obviously allows for maximum orange-ization. There were some umbrella covered beds and we spotted an empty one. We asked a guy working there if it was reserved. Annoyed at our naivety, he responded, “If you want to reserve this, you have to pay 1,500 dollars for it.” He sauntered off before giving us a chance to respond.

We found a spot wedged between the beds of two groups of people who were willing to pay that absurd amount. I took out a book and started to read (sooo not cool), but my book couldn’t distract me from the ridiculousness around me. And I wasn’t interested in laying out to get a tan—I obviously don’t need one. So as the group I was with settled into the scene, I slipped away.

A mosquito had bitten me square on the forehead, but that wasn’t the only thing that made me scratch my head. Questions swarmed my brain. A couple examples: Am I crazy for not enjoying this when so many seem to love this? Do I need to move to Europe?

::A themed slot machine::

::Street performer on The Strip::

I wandered through the casinos and onto the strip to see more of Vegas. What I saw was a desperation and depression that was not covered with a thick coat of saccharin like the pool party scene was. Empty stares and repeated button pressing at slot machines. Visitors who undoubtedly think that’s the real effing Eiffel Tower. Dirty sidewalks and poverty-stricken people panhandling or trying to sell whatever they could to make a few bucks in oppressive heat. Tourists stopping to buy a bottle of water from an unlicensed vendor here and there, but seeming to want to hold on to their funds so they can give them away to the Strip’s 6.12 billion dollar gambling industry.

Some places I’ve visited have made me sad, but none as much as the city of Las Vegas. Long drives through Cambodia introduced me to the despair of the fourth world, but I’d encountered many citizens who were charming and funny and anxious to leave a terror-filled past behind as they moved forward. In Bolivia, I’d seen destitute villages in some of the coldest barren deserts, but I’d been impressed with the colorful traditions and tenacity of the people there. Amongst and in spite of sadness, many places offer hope, character, and substance to latch on to.

No matter how obscure it is, I can come up something valuable in about just about anywhere I’ve been. But there on The Strip, I had an inability to find a silver lining in people’s striving for vacant experiences when they have so many opportunities for meaningful ones.

Don’t get me wrong, I love having a chance to let loose, but I am disturbed by the illusion that goes along with the coveted 21-35ish Vegas experience and the city in general. I’d love to say that I’ll never go back to Vegas, but you never know what will come up. I can say that if I do go back, I would be all up on the nature scene I know is nearby, I would check out the food scene I’ve heard so much, and I would explore the artsy scene that I got a glimpse of after my escape from the pool club. More on that in the next post. To be continued…

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“The lobby fairly reeked of high-grade Formica and plastic palm trees—it was clearly a high-class refuge for Big Spenders.”

- Hunter S. Thompson, Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas

The Vegas bachelorette weekend has come and gone. A few hours after I returned to San Francisco, I was desperately trying to rehydrate my body while still struggling to understand the appeal of the Vegas experience.

All I will say right now is, wow, what a trip. There is definitely more trip reviewing on the way…

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I can’t recall exactly how old I was when I went on my first and only trip to Las Vegas. I do remember that I was a teenager who was too young and too caught up in being surly to appreciate the beauty of the desert. I was reluctantly along for the ride on a family road trip through the Southwest in the middle of the summer heat.

After hitting up various national parks in Arizona and Utah, Las Vegas was our final stop. I still remember my initial view of the city. Miles of dust and nothingness behind us, a Strip of chaos suddenly emerged through the desert haze. “WTF?!” I thought as I realized it was not a mirage.

Over two or three days in Vegas, we saw a fake Eiffel Tower, walked by an indoor fake gondola ride complete with seatbelts, wandered around a fake New York City and went to see a variety show with performances by fake celebrities. It was all pretty incomprehensible. I mean, why pour all sorts of money into cheesy shows and gambling at fake cities when you could save those funds for authentic experiences at the authentic versions of those places?

Several years later, and beyond the age that allows one to take full advantage of Las Vegas, I have yet to go back. While the idea of exploring the desert has become more appealing, returning to Vegas has not. I’ve never sought the young adult Las Vegas experience. But it found me.

When my friend asked me to be in her wedding, I felt honored and agreed to be a bridesmaid. She has been a great friend over the years and is easy going, so I knew she wouldn’t turn into the type of bride who terrorizes the Oxygen network. And she certainly hasn’t.

But she began to make a quiet request that made me nervous. At first, I would pretend I didn’t hear it or I would quickly change the subject. But as time went on, the request became a little louder and more concrete. “I want to go to Vegas for my bachelorette party!” followed by an excited smile. I caved.

Now I know there is more to Vegas than the image it tends to project. But it is a bachelorette party, and as far as I can see, it will follow the typical bachelorette-in-Vegas itinerary: a large group, what I like to refer to as “clubby-clubs”, coordinated outfits for a night out, a Chippendale’s Show (!) and likely a ton of posing for pictures.

Before booking a flight, I spent some time examining a couple of the main reasons why I am not into having that sort of Vegas experience: (1) Vegas epitomizes a vast collection of ideas that make me gag. (2) It very much goes against the way I like travel and the way I see myself as a traveler.

Number one is not likely to change, but I had to think about number two a little more. A huge part of my love of travel has been the anthropological aspect of it; a desire to experience other cultures firsthand. Over time, I’ve accepted that there are many micro-cultures in the United States. So why would I refuse to look at Vegas as one of them?

As the trip approaches, I am nervous, but have been attempting to develop a “don’t knock it until you’ve tried it” mantra. Maybe it could be like some of the strange foods I’ve tried on my travels— it looks unappealing, but turns out to surprisingly tasty. Or at least tolerable. If nothing else, it will be a weekend of celebration with friends and a peek into yet another culture I might never fully understand.

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