female travel

I think America’s views about getting older are pretty messed up. An obsession with living longer added to an obsession with being eternally young (in appearance, at least) isn’t a cohesive combination.

I’ve been exposed to both American and Ghanaian attitudes towards aging. I’ve seen women who can barely shape their lips into a smile adorn their 50-something bodies with clothes that look like they’ve been taken from a teenager’s closet. I’ve also seen my little wrinkled octogenarian Ghanaian grandmother singlehandedly get the dance floor started. It seems to me that while Americans attempt to defy age physically, Ghanaians try to do it with their attitude towards living life. I like the Ghanaian aging mentality more. But living in America, it’s hard to not be influenced by the messages I’m surrounded with.

Like other women, I’m constantly exposed to harsh noise that tells me I need to do certain things before I become a washed up old hag. The noise tries to dictate what I’m allowed to do and be at each age in my life. But as one of my friends would say: Fuck that noise.

I’ve come across a few women who may not be doing newsworthy things, but in their own small ways, have said that phrase with their actions. Women who’ve shown me that as long as you’re living and able-bodied, there is no age where true living has to stop and dreams and adventure are tossed aside…

» 30s

In Chiang Mai, Thailand, a strange series of events led me up to a bar where I spotted another solo female traveler. I asked if I could join her, and spent the rest of the night conversing with a kindred spirit. She had many tales of her adventures in South East Asia, venturing off the farang trail and into tiny villages that constantly challenged her views on the way things should be. She also shared stories of her life back home and told me that in order to travel to Asia, she’d walked away from a successful business she’d started. She said that people around her thought she was crazy and to this, she shrugged casually. Running the business wasn’t for her, and more than other people’s ideas of “success”, she was interested in her own well-being and happiness.

» 40s

When I was planning to go to Peru, I did what most budget travelers tell you not to and booked a two day Machu Picchu tour in advance. I didn’t know who I would be on the tour or if there’d be anyone on the tour at all. I lucked out with the one tour mate I had, a journalist from England who lived and worked in Dubai. After several hours on a train, I’d learned a great deal about her life and her experiences with traveling and living abroad. What struck me about her was that even though she’d seen so much, she was not at all jaded. She was obviously a strong and independent woman, yet she spoke with youthful enthusiasm about the possibilities of both her personal life and what she had left to see of the world. Age was a non-issue for her, and she’d found away to make it so that adventure was incorporated into her everyday life.

» 50s

I think my mom has now gotten used to my need to be on the move (even though she still hates the idea of me traveling solo). Whether or not she’d actually admit it, she is directly responsible for my wanderlust. Growing up, my family always actively enjoyed our free time with summer trips and day trips and road trips. And my mom always had a knack for finding humor in the blunders of travel. She still always point out that the most annoying things that happen on trips tend to be the most entertaining moments to look back at later. Now she is in her mid 50s, and life hasn’t gone as planned. But she has explored different opportunities and is making things happen. So at the moment, she is getting ready to retire early, taking classes in child development and applying for the Peace Corps.

» 60s

When I volunteered in Salvador, Brazil, in a sea of recent college and high school graduates, one of the most active volunteers was almost 60. She came up with great lesson ideas that others borrowed from. She had the best accessories when we went out at night and she was the biggest advocate for taking advantage of free time. She often rounded people up for day trips or Brazilian dance classes. After spending a good amount of time in Salvador, she volunteered in several other locations in Central America and Africa followed by Spanish language classes in both Spain and Mexico. Over the course of several years of travel, she’s maintained friendships with people she’s met along the way and brings the many travelers she’s met together. Being divorced for quite sometime, finding a special person to share her life with was always something she desired. She eventually decided to settle in Northern California and recently gotten engaged. While she has slowed down a lot since her days of volunteering, she continues to travel, go to school and sing in her future husband’s band.

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I remember the beginning of my first squat toilet experience vividly. I was 17 and visiting Ghana for the first time in 15 years. Ghanaians love formalities, and because we’d been away for so long as a family, there were many welcome home rituals to take care of. A trip to my mom’s home village was in order. So one day, after hours of driving down pothole laden roads in heavy tropical rain, we reached the village. The constant bouncing and sounds of water combined with lack of facilities along the way meant I really had to go when we arrived. I asked to use the toilet, totally naive about what I would find. I opened the door and inside what appeared to be the bathroom was a hole in the ground. “Where’s the toilet?” I thought as I carefully examined the entire bathroom and the surrounding areas. My teenage heart sank as I realized the hole was my only option. Whatever happened after that has been erased from my memory.

I’ve now squatted many times and in many places, even unexpected locations like France. Asia was the number one squatting skills development location. My month in South East Asia was like a senior year course in sucking it up when it comes to toilets. It’s inevitable that every adventurous female traveler accustomed to sit down toilets will face these dreaded holes at some point. Once you accept them, they become a lot easier to deal with. Especially when you consider that if you avoid them, the health risks (dehydration, etc.) can be much worse than the few minutes you’ll spend strengthening your thighs as you relieve yourself. For women who are afraid of squat toilets, and I know many are, I thought I’d share some of what I’ve learned about how to deal with them during my travels:

Leave Your Stuff in the Vehicle

Don’t expect to have a place to hang your belongings. And because squat toileting requires balance and concentration, you want to make sure your hands are free. If you’re in a situation where you can’t leave your stuff unattended, make sure you’re carrying a backpack or messenger bag that doesn’t need to be held on to.

Wear a Skirt or a Dress

For once, fashion equals function. Weather permitting, it’s a great idea to wear a skirt for long road trips where you’ll likely have to use a bathroom in the middle of nowhere. It’s much easier to lift a skirt and get it out of the way than it is to get pants or shorts out of the way. Enough said.

Bring Your Own Toilet Paper or Tissues

Where there’s a squat toilet, there’s likely to be a lack of toilet paper. Or sometimes you may find yourself scrambling for change to buy some unearthly colored or scented toilet paper. So make sure to have your own stash.

Wash the Toilet When You’re Done

If there’s a bucket of water and a container to scoop it out with next to the toilet, it probably means you’ll need to wash the toilet down after your done. Do this to be courteous to the next squatter and know that if  you walk into a wet toilet, it’s likely that it’s just water (if the water looks relatively clear) and not whatever you were imagining it to be.

Have Hand Sanitizer Ready

I like the spray kind. If the toilet stall seems to be particularly gross, I will spray it on my feet as well.

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I know there is no shortage of travel song playlists out there, but the bulk of them are comprised of rock music by men. So I’ve come up with a list of a songs by women that can inspire you for every part of traveling, from the first sparks of a trip idea to the ups and downs of a journey. Here they are:

» Beautiful by India.Arie

Play this song when: You’re planning a trip someone in your life may not approve of and the time has come to tell them about it.

» Let The Wind Carry Me by Joni Mitchell

Play this song when: You’re coming to terms with your nomadic ways and want to feel like someone to relates to you.

» I’ll Take You There by The Staple Singers

Play this song when: You’re trying to convince someone to come along with you on a trip. Or when you’re just trying to get soulful and shake your groove thang.

» Get Out the Map by Indigo Girls

Play this song when: You’re taking the ultimate road trip. This song oozes with joyful independence.

» Nostalgie Amoureuse by Zap Mama

Play this song when: You’re uneasy about the conditions you see people living in. I can’t say the lyrics of this song completely make sense to me, but it seems to me that she is describing a situation where happens upon squalor and begins to form an opinion on it. Then, someone living in the squalor surprises her by teaching her about his life, and life in general.

» Ain’t Got No/I Got Life by Nina Simone

Play this when: You’re down and out on a trip. This a great song to help you remember what you do have.

» Beautiful People by Melanie

Play this when: You’re experiencing a moment of hippie travel bliss. When everything’s like totally connected, peaceful and hopeful, man.

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The air is getting chilly and the rainy season has begun. My typical urge to fly south for the winter has kicked in. Unfortunately, travel is not an option for me at the moment, so I will hibernate instead. To me, that means curling up with a hot beverage and a travel memoir so I can live vicariously through someone else’s adventures.

I’m partial to travel memoirs written by women rather than men because I can usually relate to both their outward and inner journeys more. I have found a few good options beyond the ubiquitous Eat, Pray, Love. Here are some suggestions:

Tales of a Female Nomad: Living at Large in the World
by Rita Golden Gelman

During an impending divorce, Rita Golden Gelman made her first solo journey to Mexico. This trip transforms her and she makes the decision to give up everything to become a global nomad. It’s encouraging to see the author evolve from a timid traveler to a confident adventurer ready to take on the world.

Adventure Divas: Searching the Globe for Women Who Are Changing the World
by Holly Morris

In this memoir, Holly Morris shares the details of the creation of the “Adventure Divas” PBS television series. It highlights powerful and unconventional women in several countries who are doing amazing things for their communities. It will inspire you to travel and make positive changes in the world.

Holy Cow: An Indian Adventure
by Sarah MacDonald

After Sarah MacDonald first traveled to India in her early 20s, she vowed to never return again. Several years later, her boyfriend takes a job in India and she decides to join him. This is a hilarious and insightful account of the two years she spent in India dabbling in various aspects of the culture and learning to accept the country as it is.

Stalking the Wild Dik-Dik: One Woman’s Solo Misadventures Across Africa
by Marie Javins

In this travel memoir, Marie Javins goes boldly where few travelers have gone before. While it was not the most poetic read, the author still managed to draw me in with tales of her exciting off the beat path adventures in Southern and Eastern Africa.

Kite Strings of the Southern Cross: A Woman’s Travel Odessy
by Laurie Gough

Maybe it’s wrong to recommend this book as I haven’t finished reading it yet. But so far I’ve found it to be a wonderfully descriptive and passionate account of traveling in the South Pacific and South East Asia, and I’m excited to continue reading it.

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They say it’s an El Nino year, so it looks like it’s going to be a long, wet winter. I may be doing quite a bit of armchair travel in the next few months. Suggestions for other travel memoirs are welcome!

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A money belt can be important to wear when you’re visiting a place where tourists are often the victims of theft. While it may not help you in extreme situations, it is handy to have for the more common pickpocketing and grab-and-runs that travelers encounter. It can give you peace of mind that your passport, credit cards, and cash stash are safe if your bag gets stolen.

The first time I tried out a money belt was for a high school choir tour (I know, I know) to Italy. I wore it for a day or two before relegating it to the bottom of my suitcase. While I was in Italy, I witnessed a ballsy purse snatching at an open air restaurant and heard tales of fellow tour members being distracted by one gypsy while another stole a bag from them. But I still never wore my money belt. It was bulky, sweaty in the humid Italian summer, and totally indiscreet with its big flap and loud velcro closure. Which is another thing– when you wear a money belt, you don’t want to announce to everyone around you that there are important things to be found under your clothing.

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While preparing to go to Southeast Asia last year I knew I couldn’t pull off my usual “keep my mouth shut and pretend to be a local” thing. I heard that tourists in Southeast Asia were prone to pickpocketing and guesthouse staff rummaging through their luggage (true, mostly in Cambodia). I decided I needed to get a money belt I would actually use.

I found a money belt designed specifically for women, the Body Pocket by Design Go. This is about as close to a perfect money belt for women as you can get. It’s made out of thin lightweight lingerie material and it breathes which makes it great for humid climates and being active. You can easily fit a passport, cash, and card in it without it looking bulky on the outside of your clothing. The strap that goes around your waist is basically a bra strap which is adjustable and stays put. It has a zipper on the top which makes it easy to access things when you need to (not so much if you’re wearing a dress though). There were times when I pulled it out and people asked me why I was pulling my underwear above my pants– it’s pretty inconspicuous! I wore it just about every day and even slept with it on during overnight train journeys with sketchy doors and locks. Carrying important things right above your crotch is never fun, but this is the best and comfortable option for women!

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