Home to the official “World’s Most Dangerous Road”, Bolivia is notoriously challenging to travel through. Its extreme geography is a huge part of what makes it such a unique country, but it can also make it tricky to get from place to place.
If you plan on visiting many different parts of the country, it’s recommended to tough out the winter temperatures to decrease the chance that rain will derail your travels. In the rainy season, roads are more likely to be washed out and flights are more likely to be canceled because of flooded runways. But even if rain is not an issue, traveling through Bolivia can test your patience, temperature thresholds, and sense of adventure.
Buses are the most common and readily available way to get around the country. They are not the most comfortable option, but they are cheap. And there are wonderful moments to be had staring through the window in awe at Bolivia’s dramatic scenery as your bus navigates the sharp curves and cliffs of the mountainous terrain.
With any method of transportation you choose, it’s wise to have a somewhat flexible schedule. And the most important thing you can bring with you is a sense of humor…
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As I was preparing for traveling through Bolivia, I noticed that there was very little information on what I might find there. I know that not knowing what to expect and figuring it out upon arrival can be part of the fun of travel. But sometimes a little preparation allows you to make the most of spontaneity. And in a challenging destination like Bolivia, not being prepared for what might come up can potentially leave you S.O.L. in Middle of Nowhere, High Altitude, Bolivia.
I don’t want to discourage anyone from visiting the country as it is an incredibly rewarding place to go to. I just want to present a realistic view of what it’s like to travel there and delve into the practicalities of the impractical act of budget travel in Bolivia. First up: Hostelling.
» Staying Warm
Traveling during Bolivia’s winter (June-August) is often recommended for drier weather (which means better road conditions) and for solo travelers who want to meet other travelers (because it is high season). But the extreme cold can make it a tricky time to be there. Trying to stay warm in order to get a good night’s sleep was a recurring theme of my trip. There was no silver lining of toasty cabins and hot cocoa so I eventually learned a few things about how to fall asleep in a subzero room.
Don’t expect:
- central heating or even carpeted floors. If it’s freezing cold outside, it will likely be freezing cold inside your hostel.
- to always have a nicer and warmer sleeping option available. Bolivia is a cheap country to travel in and you often get what you pay for.
Expect:
- to have to bundle up. Make sure you’re warm as you can be before you try to sleep. Getting out from under your covers in a freezing cold night to put on layers isn’t fun, and neither is having a sleepless and restless numb-toed night.
- to bring a sleeping bag and/or extra blankets to stay warm. You can also ask a receptionist if your hostel has extra blankets available.
- to be able to buy what you need there. There is an abundance of llama/alpaca gringo gear for sale in the markets so you can stock up on wool socks, gloves, hats, hoodies, and blankets to keep you warm at night. If you don’t want to take your purchases home with you at the end of your trip, you can always leave them behind for another traveler.
» Water and Showering
Another recurring theme of my trip was shower avoidance. After shivering yourself to sleep, the last thing you want to do is wake up and hop into chilly water. So sometimes you won’t shower. And when you do, it will likely be quick. Try not to think about what you smell like, instead give yourself a pat on the back for your environmentally friendly ways (even if they are forced).
Don’t Expect
- 24 hour hot water. A lot of hostels will have a window of time where hot water is available, usually during daylight hours.
- that a hostel that claims to have 24 hour hot really does. In my experience, hostels that explicitly stated that they did, really had 24 hour cold to lukewarm water. So you might be better off with an honest hostel that gives you a hot water time frame.
- running water. Water is scarce in Bolivia. There may be times where you’ll have to brush your teeth with bottled water or flush the toilet with a bucket of water.
- to have a towel provided. Bring along a quick drying towel.
Expect
- that if hot water is available, it might only be a trickle of water. To access the hot water in some hostels, you can only turn on the water a little bit. If you want more pressure, the water will be cold.
- to take advantage of having a hot shower when you get a chance.
» Party Hostels
Party hostels can be great places to meet other travelers and let loose. And they often have more amenities (such as hot water and warmer bedding) than smaller, more local hostels. However, they tend to harbor all sorts of losery travelers with questionable motives. If you want to stay in party hostels, use them sparingly, and don’t get sucked into staying for an extended period of time.
Expect:
- to choose your hostel wisely. Chat with other travelers who have already visited a city you’re heading to and get the scoop on the hostels there.
- to book in well in advance if you want a small dorm or private room in high season
- to keep track of your hostel purchases. Some hostels let you charge food, drinks, etc. to your room and it’s important to have a sense of what you’ve bought so you don’t get overcharged when you check out.
Don’t expect:
» A lot of this information is specific to traveling in the Andean part of Bolivia. Some of this information can apply to the Andean parts of Peru as well.
August 20, 2009
You travel seeking to fulfill a desire to see and experience a place, but you inevitably end up leaving wanting more. Each trip that uncovers a little piece of the world signals that there is much more left to seek out on this miraculous Earth. The vicious cycle of wanderlust.
At the airport, the scene of Bolivian elite and tacky tourist groups made it sink in that I was about to enter to another world. The haphazardness of the check-in and airport security process reminded me that I was still in Bolivia. The slow transition continued in Miami. Technically, I was back on home soil, but that airport always feels like the perfect halfway point between Latin America and the United States. In SFO, I re-entered the calm, organized world I’d been easing into.
I never want my trips to end. And it was the same with this one. But there was something different. An intense satisfaction that distracted me from thoughts of other places left to uncover. I’d done it. My first big solo trip. As I stepped off the plane, I felt the joy of accomplishment pumping through my veins and energizing me for my return home. Months later, I still smile to myself when I think about it.
Bolivia is a stubborn country that refuses to be anything but itself. At times it is infuriating, at other times it is endearing. Every city I visited was completely different from the next. But in each place, I felt a sense of “this is Bolivia.”
I love refusal to give into the status quo. I love a challenge. I love unique beauty. I love a sense of humor. These are some of Bolivia’s qualities that made me fall for it in the end. “[Bolivia] is beautiful, [Bolivia] is a stuggle. [Bolivia] is a beautiful struggle.”
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