photography

When I arrived in Prague, I had a strange sensation that I later identified as “tourist shock”. My mouth hung open as I observed the magnitude of the crowd at Old Town Square for the first time and wondered how the Charles Bridge could withstand the tourist masses. I quickly realized that my perception of “touristy” had been heavily skewed by the kind of places I’ve visited over the last few years. The backpacker-oriented destinations I’ve been to in Asia and Latin America really have nothing on summertime Prague.

While I was surprised, I could also easily see why so many people had flocked to the beautiful and historic city of Prague in the summer sun. I decided to get caught up in the tourist masses for a couple days and enjoyed it. I took a free walking tour with a huge group of people and unabashedly explored the city with my camera hanging from my neck. In the end I found few traps, but ultimately a tourist trail that was worth taking:

The west end of the Charles Bridge.

Underneath the Charles Bridge in Malá Strana, a historic neighborhood on the west bank of the Vltava river.

I’m not sure why, but marionettes are popular in Prague. Tourist shops are full of them.

Old Town Square.

I saw these huge crowds in Old Town Square twice before I found out what they were looking at. I was amused at all these people with their cameras held up high, waiting so intently for something to happen…

… And I was more amused when I later found out that they were look at this, the Prague Astronomical Clock. People get excited about it because every hour, on the hour, it like, does stuff. Some of the features, like the skeleton in the upper right corner, are animated. The clock itself is cool looking and an impressive 600 years old. But apparently, the animation part of it is so underwhelming that it’s earned spots on lists of most overrated attractions in Europe. That doesn’t stop people from wanting to see it for themselves.

A Franz Kafka memorial in the Jewish Quarter.

The Basilica of St. James is full of artistic detail inside and out, but that’s not what its known for. A legend tells us that a man once tried to steal a Virgin Mary statue from the church. But before he could finish his theft, the statue gripped his arm tightly and wouldn’t let go. The only option was to cut off his arm, and what is supposed to be the thief’s severed limb still hangs in the church today.

The Old Jewish Cemetery.

There are so many tombstones because when this cemetery was built, and for quite some time thereafter, Jews were discriminated against and given very limited space in Prague. This led to graves being layered on top of other graves, as many as twelve deep.

One of Prague’s most famous buildings, often referred to as the “Dancing House”. I wanted to like this building, but seeing it in person, in the context of the rest of the city, I just couldn’t

It’s clear that Prague is a city that focuses on tourism. These cleanup crews with extra large vacuum cleaners were everywhere the tourists were.

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Understanding the popularity of Prague took only a matter of moments as I set out see the city on my first full day there. With all of its fanciful buildings and bridges, I felt like I’d entered a fairytale land — the kind of place you see in a movie, but you don’t think actually exists.

Whether I was in a touristy part of town or on an obscure side street, in all directions there were always wonderful aesthetic touches to capture in Prague — a great use of color, architectural details, flowers, and many gold-topped spires:

A statue of John of Nepomuk on the Charles Bridge.

Ornamental iron work on the side of a building.

Colorful buildings.

Park benches.

Blooming flowers surround the Jan Hus Memorial in Old Town Square.

The spires of Tyn Church in Old Town Square.

Detail on a building in the Jewish Quarter.

Detail on the Basilica of St. James.

Ornate buildings.

A sculpture at the Old Jewish Cemetery.

Old architecture reflected on a rare modern building.

A bit of Prague architecture embedded on the base of a lamp post.

The detail on this building was unreal.

An ornate lamp post on the Legii Bridge.

The spires of St. Nicolas Church.

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I spent much of my time in Friedrichshain exploring the neighborhood on foot, often ditching my map to make random turns on a whim. Though Friedrichshain eventually became one of my favorite neighborhoods in Berlin, at first glance, it had seemed somewhat stiff and colorless. The unexpected summer chill and intense sideways rain that left broken umbrellas strewn about the sidewalks didn’t exactly help either. But the weather turned and my sunny day walks eventually revealed a neighborhood that holds an abundance of charming surprises:

I loved the Berlin appreciation for flowers and the flower shops were everywhere in the summertime.

A wall covered in graffiti, mostly wheat pastes and stencils. There will definitely be more photos of this wall to come.

Friedrichshain has a charming liberal and outspoken vibe.

A garden shop.

Decorative faux taxidermy in a shop full of quirky items.

The weather in Berlin is not so great, but people really make the most of it when it is nice.

An indoor market spills on to the sidewalk.

A building’s reflection in a puddle left from the previous day’s storms.

A fallen tree.

A great building near Friedrichshain’s main park and not far from the Karl-Marx-Allee. It had all of the boxiness of the buildings of that street, but a touch of color, a bit more flair, and the standalone nature of it made it much more stunning.

A gorgeous cemetery.

Such a beautiful way to honor those who’ve passed on.

The East Side Gallery murals that were repainted were covered with anti-graffiti coating. On the backside of the wall, however, people have plenty of space to leave their mark on Berlin.

Biking is a big thing in Berlin.

A view of the Spree River from the Oberbaum Bridge.

The Oberbaum Bridge unites Friedrichshain (part of the former East Berlin) and Kreuzberg (part of the former West Berlin). After the Berlin Wall went up, the bridge was used as a crossing for West Berliners only.

A cloudy sunset over the Spree River. On the far right is one of the city’s most iconic symbols, the Fernsehturm (TV Tower) Berlin.

A nice long summer evening in Berlin.

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