travel

When I arrived in Prague, I had a strange sensation that I later identified as “tourist shock”. My mouth hung open as I observed the magnitude of the crowd at Old Town Square for the first time and wondered how the Charles Bridge could withstand the tourist masses. I quickly realized that my perception of “touristy” had been heavily skewed by the kind of places I’ve visited over the last few years. The backpacker-oriented destinations I’ve been to in Asia and Latin America really have nothing on summertime Prague.

While I was surprised, I could also easily see why so many people had flocked to the beautiful and historic city of Prague in the summer sun. I decided to get caught up in the tourist masses for a couple days and enjoyed it. I took a free walking tour with a huge group of people and unabashedly explored the city with my camera hanging from my neck. In the end I found few traps, but ultimately a tourist trail that was worth taking:

The west end of the Charles Bridge.

Underneath the Charles Bridge in Malá Strana, a historic neighborhood on the west bank of the Vltava river.

I’m not sure why, but marionettes are popular in Prague. Tourist shops are full of them.

Old Town Square.

I saw these huge crowds in Old Town Square twice before I found out what they were looking at. I was amused at all these people with their cameras held up high, waiting so intently for something to happen…

… And I was more amused when I later found out that they were look at this, the Prague Astronomical Clock. People get excited about it because every hour, on the hour, it like, does stuff. Some of the features, like the skeleton in the upper right corner, are animated. The clock itself is cool looking and an impressive 600 years old. But apparently, the animation part of it is so underwhelming that it’s earned spots on lists of most overrated attractions in Europe. That doesn’t stop people from wanting to see it for themselves.

A Franz Kafka memorial in the Jewish Quarter.

The Basilica of St. James is full of artistic detail inside and out, but that’s not what its known for. A legend tells us that a man once tried to steal a Virgin Mary statue from the church. But before he could finish his theft, the statue gripped his arm tightly and wouldn’t let go. The only option was to cut off his arm, and what is supposed to be the thief’s severed limb still hangs in the church today.

The Old Jewish Cemetery.

There are so many tombstones because when this cemetery was built, and for quite some time thereafter, Jews were discriminated against and given very limited space in Prague. This led to graves being layered on top of other graves, as many as twelve deep.

One of Prague’s most famous buildings, often referred to as the “Dancing House”. I wanted to like this building, but seeing it in person, in the context of the rest of the city, I just couldn’t

It’s clear that Prague is a city that focuses on tourism. These cleanup crews with extra large vacuum cleaners were everywhere the tourists were.

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Understanding the popularity of Prague took only a matter of moments as I set out see the city on my first full day there. With all of its fanciful buildings and bridges, I felt like I’d entered a fairytale land — the kind of place you see in a movie, but you don’t think actually exists.

Whether I was in a touristy part of town or on an obscure side street, in all directions there were always wonderful aesthetic touches to capture in Prague — a great use of color, architectural details, flowers, and many gold-topped spires:

A statue of John of Nepomuk on the Charles Bridge.

Ornamental iron work on the side of a building.

Colorful buildings.

Park benches.

Blooming flowers surround the Jan Hus Memorial in Old Town Square.

The spires of Tyn Church in Old Town Square.

Detail on a building in the Jewish Quarter.

Detail on the Basilica of St. James.

Ornate buildings.

A sculpture at the Old Jewish Cemetery.

Old architecture reflected on a rare modern building.

A bit of Prague architecture embedded on the base of a lamp post.

The detail on this building was unreal.

An ornate lamp post on the Legii Bridge.

The spires of St. Nicolas Church.

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The first thing that stands out to me in Berlin is how geometric it looks. There’s so much symmetry, right angles, repetition. As I look up at buildings both old and modern, it seems that even in moments of creativity, there’s an underlying orderliness to the city. The scrawl of graffiti that I often spot at ground level wants to betray that.

I’m getting my first glimpses of Berlin from the backseat of a taxi. Collecting my luggage and clearing immigration had been so easy and efficient that I was almost confused and waiting for more of the airport intensity I’ve grown accustomed to. I’d stepped out of the airport into a overcast and wet evening and immediately caught a taxi. All of the cabs in the queue happened to be Mercedes. For a moment, it felt strange to toss my backpack into the trunk of what would be considered a luxury car at home and to travel to a hostel in such style. It’s funny to think that something we place such a high value on in the U.S. could be commonplace in another reality.

As I approach my hostel, what little bit the sun was doing has nearly ended. And the city suddenly seems more alive than it had appeared along the way. It’s a Thursday night and I’m staying in a part of the city called Friedrichshain — two factors that I eventually learn will guarantee a party atmosphere.

The name of my hostel translates to “Industrial Palace” in English, and it’s just as upright and rectangular as the buildings I passed by on my way. And it’s huge. Before I enter, I stop for a moment to crane my neck and try to take it all in. I’m jetlagged, of course, but I’m even more thrown off by how I haven’t quite felt that sense of adventure and slight fear that occurs when I arrive in  new place.

Europe, it’s been awhile. It’s been several years of traveling the global south, of visiting all those places Europeans reached centuries before me and left indelible marks on. It’s been rickety transportation and bargaining and adding new spicy flavors to my taste buds’ repertoire. It’s been ancient ruins, jungles, deserts. It’s been quirky and sometimes rundown hostels and local people who need no reason to talk to you other than the fact that you’re there. This has become my travel norm.

I never imagined that revisting Germany would feel so different, but it does. And at the same time, it almost feels too normal. But Berlin is a huge city with so many layers of history and so many layers of personality. And what I’ve seen so far only has me more curious to discover what’s beyond those stark facades, behind those never ending rows of windows, in the alleys between the boxy buildings, and around the corners.

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